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The Zinalrothorn South West Ridge (The Rothorngrat) is regarded as one of the best rock climbs in the area. Good quality offering fantastic climbing throughout the route. Summiting on one of the most beautiful 4000-meters-peak in the Wallis.
Aspect: South West
Time: 6-8 Hours
Assent: 1,050 m
Distance: 8 km
Risk Potential | High |
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Grade | AD+ IV |
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Equipment | 1 x 50m Rope |
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Crampons & Ice Axe
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Alpine Climbing Rack |
Guide Book |
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Alpine Club – 4000m peaks of the Alps |
GPX File |
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Zinalrothorn SW Ridge |
About the Zinalrothorn South West Ridge
The Zinalrothorn South West Ridge (The Rothorngrat) is regarded as one of the best rock climbs in the Zermatt. The Mountain is one of the high summits separating the Matter valley on the east and Val de Zinal on the west. At the western foot of the mountain lies the Zinal Glacier and, on the northern side, the Moming Glacier. The ridge offers good quality rock throughout the climb, with stunning view both on route and at the summit.
The villages of Täsch and Zermatt are the closest while Zinal on the north-west is located 9 km away.
First Ascent
The first ascent was made on 22 August 1864 via the north ridge by Leslie Stephen and Florence Crauford Grove with guides Jakob Anderegg and Melchior Anderegg. They left Zinal at 1 a.m. and ascended the Zinal Glacier. They reached the shoulder from the ridge connecting the Blanc de Moming at the base of the northern ridge at 9 a.m. The traverse of the ridge to the summit took them 2 hours, Stephen wrote later that it was ‘the nastiest piece of climbing I have ever accomplished’.
Start Location
Cabane du Mountet (2886m) To reach the hut from Zinal on the E-route. From the parking place at the south-end of Zinal, you cross a bridge and follow the road on the western side of the Navisence to the S bens until it goes up. You keep on the road which goes up to the alphut Le Vichiesso (1862m). Shortly afterwards, you turn right to the new Mountet-hut-way. You go the road down to the left, traverse the stream of the glacier end (Zinalglacier) on a bridge. You reach the turn off to the Tracuit-hut and Ar-Pitetta-hut (1,5 h). You take the right way and go up zigzag in SE-direction, traverse the western hangs of the Besso above the breaks of the Zinalglacier. You turn around the Besso-SW-ridge via a rock zone below P. 3052m. In SE-direction, you reach the hut via rocky outcrops.
Time: 4.5 hrs, Elevation: 1250 m, Distance: 9 km):
Hut bookings and Information: Cabane du Mountet
The Ascent
From the Cabane du Mountet take the path South-East to the crest of the lateral moraine of the Mountet Glacier.Travel North-North-East up the crest until you’re under the cliffs of the Blanc de Morma, where the left edge of the glacier is reached at 3300m. Go South-East across the Galacier, passing under the rock island of Spot Hight 3364m.Travel towards the Rothornjoch and at 3607m you will reach a bergschraru under an ice slope directly. Cross this and dumb the left side of the slope to gain the ridge just above the col.
The Descent
The descent back to Cabane du Mountet is made via the same ascent route. Alternative descent can be made via the South-East ridge towards the Rothornhütte.
About the Author
Dave Lamb
Dave is outdoorsman with a passion for sport. In his former year a member of the Great Britain XC skiing & Biathlon Team's. Since 2013 Dave has worked in the outdoor industry as a BASI Trainer and a trainer / assessor for rock climbing, mountain biking and mountaineering instructors. You can usually find him in the backcountry, looking for stories to share.
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